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One found with joy that the South Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if bamboo, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

400g waxy potatoes, sliced into 4cm chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
Two garlic cloves, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Transfer to a medium-large bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a variable duration depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, topped with a little more sea salt and the sauce on the side for serving.